Библия моды — страница 56 из 57

Peres, Daniel, and the Editors of Details. Details Men’s Style Manual: The Ultimate Guide for Making Your Clothes Work for You. New York: Gotham Books, 2007.

Perry, Imani. “‘Malcolm X,’ by Manning Marable.” San Francisco Chronicle (April 24, 2011), www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/04/23/RV611J2B0B.DTL.

Poiret, Paul. King of Fashion: The Autobiography of Paul Poiret. Translated by Stephen Haden Guest. London: V&A Publishing, 2009.

Potvin, John, ed. The Places and Spaces of Fashion, 1800–2007. New York: Routledge, 2009.

Purdy, Daniel Leonhard, ed. The Rise of Fashion: A Reader. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2004.

Reeder, Jan Glier. High Style: Masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010.

Roetzel, Bernhard. Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion. Cologne: Könemann, 2004.

Rutt, Richard. A History of Hand Knitting. London: Batsford, 1987.

Scaasi, Arnold. Women I Have Dressed (and Undressed!). New York: Scribner, 2004.

Selbie, Robert. The Anatomy of Costume. New York: Crescent Books, 1977.

Steele, Valerie. “The Revolution: Liberty, Equality, and Antiquity.” In Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. Oxford: Berg, 1998.

Steele, Valerie, ed. The Berg Companion to Fashion. Oxford: Berg, 2010.

__________. Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Vol. 2: Fads to Nylon. Farmington Hills, MI: Thompson Gale, 2005.

__________. Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1997.

__________. The Impossible Collection of Fashion. New York: Assouline, 2011.

Stegemeyer, Anne. Who’s Who in Fashion. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1988.

Sullivan, James. Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon. New York: Gotham Books, 2006.

Tatar, Steven, with Denise Grollmus. The Ohio Knitting Mills Knitting Book: 26 Patterns Celebrating Four Decades of American Sweater Style. New York: Artisan, 2010.

Tétart-Vittu, Françoise. Auguste Racinet: The Complete Costume History. Cologne: Taschen, 2006.

Theaker, Julie. “History 101.” Knitty.com (Spring 2006), http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEAThistory101.html.

Thesander, Marianne. The Feminine Ideal. Translated by Nicholas Hills. London: Reaktion Books, 1997.

Thomas, Inigo. “Just Dandy: The Enduring Mystique of the White Suit.” Slate.com (May 25, 2005), http://img.slate.com/id/2119498/.

Thompson, Gladys. Patterns for Guernseys, Jerseys, and Arans: Fishermen’s Sweaters from the British Isles. New York: Dover, 1979.

Thurman, Judith. “Closet Encounters: Charting the Rise of the Fashionable American Woman.” The New Yorker (May 10, 2010), www.newyorker.com/arts/critics/artworld/2010/05/10/100510craw_artworld_thurman.

Time. “Fashion: The American Look.” Time (May 2, 1955).

Tonello, Michael. Bringing Home the Birkin: My Life in Hot Pursuit of the World’s Most Coveted Handbag. New York: William Morrow, 2008.

Tortora, Phyllis G., and Robert S. Merkel, eds. Fairchild’s Dictionary of Textiles, 7th ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1996.

Tosa, Marco. Evening Dresses 1900–1940. Translated by Carolyn Cotchett. The Twentieth Century: Histories of Fashion. Modena, Italy: Zanfi Editori, 1988.

Trebay, Guy. “American Fashion’s Coming-Out in Paris.” The New York Times: Thursday Styles (January 12, 2011), www.nytimes.com/2011/01/13/fashion/13Costume.html?src=twt&twt=nytimesstyle.

Vaughan, Hal. Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War. New York: Knopf, 2011.

Vinken, Barbara. Fashion Zeitgeist: Trends and Cycles in the Fashion System. Translated by Mark Hewson. Oxford: Berg, 2005.

Vreeland, Diana. D.V. Edited by George Plimpton and Christopher Hemphil. 1984. Reprinted with a new foreword by Mary Louise Wilson. New York: Da Capo Press, 1997.

Weibel, Adèle Coulin. Two Thousand Years of Textiles: The Figured Textiles of Europe and the Near East. New York: Pantheon Books, 1952.

Weldon Owen. Style Yourself: Inspired Advice from the World’s Top Fashion Bloggers. Foreword by Jane Aldridge. San Francisco: Weldon Owen, 2011.

Welters, Linda, and Patricia A. Cunningham, eds. Twentieth-Century American Fashion. Oxford: Berg, 2005.

Werle, Simone. 50 Fashion Designers You Should Know. Munich: Prestel, 2010.

Willett, C., and Phillis Cunnington. The History of Underclothes. 1951. Reprinted with revisions by A. D. Mansfield and Valerie Mansfield. London: Faber and Faber, 1981.

Williams, Beryl. Fashion Is Our Business. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1945.

__________ . Young Faces in Fashion. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1956.

Yohannan, Kohle, and Nancy Nolf. Claire McCardell: Redefining Modernism. Foreword by Dorothy Twining Globus. Introduction by Valerie Steele. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1998.


We love museums, and went to several fashion exhibits that were especially inspiring:


American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. Visited August 2010.

Cleopatra: The Search for the Last Queen of Egypt. Philadelphia: Franklin Institute. Visited December 2010.

Illuminating Fashion. New York: Pierpont Morgan Library. Visited June 2011.

The Master of Blue Jeans. New York: Didier Aaron Gallery. Visited January 2011.

Savage Beauty: Alexander McQueen. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. Visited July 2011.

Sporting Life. New York: the Museum at FIT. Visited August 2011.

Благодарности

За профессиональную помощь и за то, что вы такие замечательные: Питеру Стейнбергу, Марше Тонкинс и Джонатану Суодену. За то, что превратили процесс издания в радость: всем в «Гэллери Букс», включая Луиз Берк; Йену Бергстрому; Йену Робинсону; Джин Энн Роуз; Алексу Льюису; Лизе Литуок; Крису Серджио; Джейме Путорти; Крису Тобиассену; и в особенности нашему великолепному редактору Тришну Бочковскому; а также Грегу Кирмсеру за безупречный поиск фотоматериалов. За интенсивный курс по истории моды: всем в Нью-Йоркской публичной библиотеке, в особенности Клейтону Киркингу и Джею Барксдейлу. В Вертхаймском зале библиотеки было очень приятно работать, даже когда на меня шикали за то, что шептался. Особую благодарность я хочу выразить всем специалистам по части моды и авторам, с которыми мы советовались лично или чьи работы читали.

Иллюстрации

Marie Antoinette by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun (1779)/Palace of Versailles; Apeda Studio, NYPL, isadora_0011vb; Everett Collection; PP238.11.007, courtesy of the Maryland Historical Society; Everett Collection; Mary Evans/National Magazine Company/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Michael Cali/Rex Features/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Eliot Elisofon/Time & Life Pictures/Getty Images; Everett Collection; © Universal/Everett Collection; Jason Smith/Everett Collection; Matthew Diffee/The New Yorker/Conde Nast; Frank Micelotta/Getty Images Entertainment/Getty Images; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Walker Evans/E verett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Bain Collection, Library of Congress; “Grandma + My Dad” © sflovestory/CC-BY-SA-2.0; Albert Edwin Roberts, Queensland Museum; Everett Collection; © Miramax/Everett Collection; Mary Evans/Peter & Dawn Cope Collection/Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/The Metropolitan Museum of Art/Gift of Diana S. Field; JACQUES DEMARTHON/AFP/Getty Images; Mary Evans/National Magazines/Everett Collection; Mirrowpix/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Mary Evans/National Magazines/Everett Collection; David Longendyke/Everett Collection; Tim Boxer/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; CSU Archives/Everett Collection. Mirek Towski/DMI/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images; © 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Gianni Dagli Orti/The Art Archive at Art Resource; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; AISA/Everett Collection; Marcus Gheeraerts, National Portrait Gallery; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; (внизу) Los Angeles County Museum of Art; Royal Collection, Belgium; Prints & Photographs Division, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62–72813; Images of Empire/Universal Images Group via Getty Images; The National Archives; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Gift of Mrs. Emmet Whitlock; Everett Collection; © The Metropolitan Museum/Art Resource; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Diana S. Field; The Philadelphia Museum of Art/Art Resourceс. Everett Collection; Richard Young/Rex USA/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; © Aaron Spelling Prod./Everett Collection; © Paramount/Everett Collection; Jon Kopaloff/FilmMagic/Getty Images; Everett Collection; (вверху) Curt Gunther/Hulton Archive/Getty Images; (внизу) Mirrorpix/Everett Collection; Warner Bros./Everett Collection; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; 20th Century Fox/Everett Collection; Mirrorpix/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Josiah Wedgwood and Sons Ltd., 18th century/Indianapolis Museum of Art; Horatio Hale, Musee de Seminaire, Quebec; Uranometria (1661), Courtesy of the United States Naval Observatory Library; Superstock/Everett Collection; Everett Collection; Dee Cercone/Everett Collection; Jean-Marc Nattier, Former Crown Collection; Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection/Metropolitan Museum/Gift of Arturo and Paul Peralta-Ramos; Higgins Armory Museum; Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Superstock/Everett Collection; Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; Salome Receives the Head of John the Ba